Type : Craft Of Painted & Printed Fabrics
Main Centres : Machilipatnam And Kalahasti In Andhra Pradesh
Typical Items : Clothing & Wall Decorations
Colours : Only Four Colours Are Used, Red, Yellow, Green &
Blue
Kalamkari is the art of painting and printing fabrics. Kalam is a
Persian word meaning pen and kari means work. The kalam is dipped in
the ink and the wool fabric is pressed while applying the paint on
the fabric.The craft has now been in existence for a thousand years,
but gained the height of it's popularity during the fifteenth
century.
The discover of a resist-dyed piece of cloth on a silver vase at
the ancient site of Harappa confirms that the tradition of Kalamkari
is very old. Even the ancient Buddhist Chaitya Viharas were
decorated with Kalamkari cloth. The great Alexander is also supposed
to have acquired this Kalamkari cloth. The Kalamkari tradition
chiefly consists of scenes from Hindu mythology. Figures of deities
with rich border embellishments were created for the temples.
Today the two main centres of Kalamkari production are
Machilipatnam and Srikalahasti in the state of Andhra Pradesh. The
work from these two places is different from each other.
The Machilipatnam work is a combination of painting and printing.
Outlines are printed with beautifully carved blocks, while the
interiors are filled in with the vegetable dyes using the 'kalam'.
The Machilipatnam school chiefly produces large pieces of textiles
used for sarees and linen.Under the British rule the designs as well
as the end use of the fabric differed - for garments as well as
furnishings. During this period floral designs were popular. The
artisans were made to create even portraits of English men.
The Srikalahasti style, on the other hand involves free hand
drawing. The application of colors is done with a brush from start
to finish. The style is noted for its wall panels depicting
mythological tales. The Kalahasti tradition which developed in the
temple region mostly concentrated on themes form Hindu mythology,
epics (Ramayana, Mahabharatha), images of Gods and heroes.
Karrupur is a style of Kalamkari that developed in the Thanjavur
region during the Maratha rule. The Kalamkari work was a further
embellishment to the gold brocade work in the woven fabric, which
was used as sarees & dhotis by the royal family during the
period of Raja Sarfoji and later Raja Shivaji.
After independence of India, the Handicrafts Development Board took
up the task of reviving this art, which had dwindled due to lack of
buyers. Today the All India handicrafts board has set-up a training
course and school for kalamkari workers, drawing on the skills and
creative urges of the few remaining workers.
The Method of Kalamkari :
Originally, only vegetable dyes were used for colouring the fabric.
The designs are outlined with a cotton tipped bamboo stick and dyed
in vegetable and mineral colors - black from jaggery, rose from
madder, yellow from the dried myrobalan fruit and blue from indigo.
Each design can take several days to complete, as the process of
dyeing is very elaborate. While smaller pieces are hand-drawn, large
canvasses and sheets are block printed. The products include a whole
range of bed linen, curtains, sarees, wall hangings etc.
Shops for Kalamkari :
Central Cottage Industries Emporium :
94, Minerva Complex, S.D. Road, Sec'bad 500 003
Crafts Museum Calcutta Emporium :
Behind Lepakshi, Gunfoundry, Hyderabad 500 001
Kalanjali Arts & Crafts :
5-10-194, Hill Fort Road, Saifabad, HYD 500 004
Sheela's :
Indian Handicrafts Specialists 17, Lal Bahadur Stadium, HYD 500 001
Antiquity : 37, Santoshima Colony, West Marredpally, Sec'bad
500 026
Lepakshi Handicrafts Emporium : 94, Minerva Complex,
S.D.Road, Sec'bad 500 003
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